In my third test fold, I combined the best parts of my two first test folds. The problem is that the front is very messy-looking: the extra paper from the central rhombus is visible and not especially nice to see there. That means I should be able to use it for more complex models. This design is much better from the back – there’s no extra paper between the two flaps along the central diagonal. Then I squash-folded the triangle to flatten it against the front of the model: Diagonal intersection draft 2 back Diagonal intersection draft 2 front I started by inverting the waterbomb base so the triangle was sticking out the front of the model instead of out the back. Then I started trying to figure out how to get rid of that extra triangle. The large triangle sticking up in the back will get in the way of the curved portion of the model. This design looks great from the front, but the back won’t work for the full model. My first attempt was to fold the central rhombus into a waterbomb base: Diagonal intersection draft 1 back Diagonal intersection draft 1 front Creating the flat plane of the model is basically just folding down a rhombus to a single line. I started with some of the measurements I’ve previously used for the diagonal shift models. This time I took some photos of my first couple test folds to share. I’ve done a lot of engineering to figure out how to fold my recent series, but I haven’t shown much of the process. Hopefully if I do another test fold, I’ll be able to fix some of those problems. Even though this piece worked decently as a test model, it doesn’t work quite well enough yet for me to use this in a real model. This test model is a combination of my two recent series: Diagonal Shifts and Intersections. Tessellations 1 Tessellations 2 Tessellations 3 Tessellations 4 Tessellations 5 I would like to eventually incorporate more tessellated/corrugated elements into some of my own 3D designs, but it may still be a while before I build up the skills to do that well. The paper gets soft too quickly, which limits the complexity of the models I could successfully fold. These tessellations are all folded from cheap 6-inch squares of paper, which isn’t ideal. I learned the proper way to fold grids to minimize errors, but folding the grids still takes a long time (for 32 divisions, close to an hour for a square grid and longer for a hexagonal grid). I have folded a couple tessellations before, but this was my first time folding a lot in a short period of time. It’s a nice introduction, building up from the basic folding techniques to a variety of simple and complex tessellations. Since my typical folding style isn’t very conducive to folding while traveling, I decided to practice folding tessellations from Eric Gjerde’s book, Origami Tessellations: Awe-Inspiring Geometric Design. I recently returned from a long plane trip, and I had a lot of time for origami while in transit. Here are some close-up images of some of the tessellations: Negative Space Stars, designed by Eric Gjerde Star Puff Tessellation, designed by Ralf Konrad Aztec Twist, designed by Eric Gjerde 3.4.6.4, designed by Eric Gjerde Layered squares, adapted from Christine Edison’s Modern Blue Reverse-engineered/adapted from Christine Edison’s Roundabout This paper is great for tessellations because it holds up through a lot of folding and unfolding without getting mushy, which many of the more complicated tessellations require.These models are all folded directly from or adapted from Eric Gjerde’s book Origami Tessellations. All of these are folded from squares of Elephant Hide paper, some painted with acrylic paint. I like folding tessellations while traveling because they are easy to transport (small and mostly flat) and relatively repetitive to fold because of the repetition in the grid and symmetry of the pattern (and so possible to do when I’m tired). … I do something like this: Collection of tessellations
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